Sometimes being number one isn’t all that it is cracked
up to be; there is the constant need to defend your position
from others who are vying for the top slot, and eventually
the only way is down. There is little chance of this
happening formally in the world of Bordeaux crus, however,
where the cru classe system was determined in the middle of
the 19th century and has remained, with only a few
exceptions, rigidly adhered to since. Wine aficionados may
argue about the relative quality of the Grand Premier Cru
wines, but the fact remains that, on paper, at least, the
very top wines (with one exception) are exactly the same
today as when the system was devised in 1855.
Spare a thought, then, for the great clarets that for a
variety of reasons narrowly failed to make it to Premier
Grand Cru status and have had to suffer the relative
ignominy of a lifelong Deuxieme Grand Cru rating. Over the
years a group of these wines that are particularly
consistent in their quality, has emerged, and is sometimes
referred to as the ‘super seconds’. Of these, Chateau Pichon
Lalande is, arguably, one of the best.
The chateau itself has a long and convoluted history,
eventually passing out of the hands of the Lalande family in
the early twentieth century. Today it is owned by the Rozard
family, famous for their ownership of the Roederer champagne
house, during whose stewardship it has attained an enviable
reputation amongst the ‘best of the rest’ clarets.
The grand vin, Chateau Pichon-Longueville, Comtesse de
Lalande, is composed of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet
franc and petit verdot, in proportions typical of a left
bank claret. In style, it is similar to its neighbouring
Premier Grand Cru Pauillacs, with a well balanced, elegant
finish and fine complexity that is very different, and
somewhat more refined than some of the more in-your-face New
World cabernets.
There is fruit in there, of course, but it does not
define the wine; there are far too many other flavours in
abundance for fruit to be the defining characteristic. Which
vintage you choose, will, of course affect the balance of
these flavours, but the our recommended vintage - the 1996 -
provides notes of cassis, fine chocolate and the faintest
aroma of Cuban cigars, held together with subtle tannins. The
finish is long, but not in a showing off kind of way. Pichon
Lalande is just not like that.
Of course, it does not quite possess the sheer strength
and character of, say, La Tour or Lafite, but it also does
not inhabit quite the same price bracket, and cases of the
grand vin from decent vintages are available at relatively
reasonable prices. It is therefore less overtly flashy than
the premier grand cru set, and is less likely to be
perceived as a display of ostentation, should you serve it
to guests at a party.
Ultimately, Pichon Lalande is all about understatement,
and like a good bespoke suit, it will not be so vulgar as to
shout its status to all and sundry. Serve to special guests,
with the firm knowledge that you possess not only taste and
sophistication, but also the art of restraint.
